Last Friday we went with a group of, mostly English, people from 'Romagne International' to L'abbaye de St Savin sur Gartempe.
We'd joined the group at the beginning of the year, but, due to B&B--- or other committments, had been unable to get to any of their events. Most of the 2010 Calendar of Events was composed of socials-- food, drink, dance,music, petanque and quizes. All good fun, but not the end of the world if you can't get there!
A couple of weeks ago, though, Claudette-- an 80year old French lady from Romagne gave a guided walk around the village with particular emphasis on wild flowers and their uses. Sadly we couldn't make it--but nor could many others & it's hoped that she'll give a repeat performance next year!
The outing to St Savin did not coincide with any other event for us, so we set off-- an hour's drive to the north-west! It was market day, but plenty of parking space in the Abbaye car park that adjoined the town square!
We had a group photo taken-- paid 5.50 euros each at the Reception in the book shop, & set off with our English speaking French guide. It was her first time in English--and she was very good! It was just a little unfortunate that the vastness of the building meant her voice got lost from time to time. With hindsight a bit of historical research on the building would have made it easier to understand. Doing it when you get back rather makes you want to return for another look!
As it was, looking at all the magnificent paintings--mostly done in the 10th & 11th century--- and hearing all about them, was a bit of a mini-history of France.
The abbaye was built in the 9th century--and dedicated to St Savin. Savin & his brother Cyprian were Christians in Macedonia in the 5th century. They escaped persecutions and ended up on the banks of the River Gartempe. There they didn't do much better--and were beheaded--and then buried by local Christan priests. 3 centuries later their bodies were found and a church was built on the site.
In the 10th century it was considerably upgraded and was quite prosperous for the next few centuries, with 16 Benedictine monks living there.
Hiccups included the 100 years war--against England! The Black Prince sacked the abbaye in the 13th century. Next were the Religious Wars--Catholics & Huguenots--and later came the French revolution. In between all this were dishonourable Abbots who stole from the place-- and fire and destruction of many parts of the buildings leading to considerable dessicration of the place.
By the late 18th & on into the 19th century, at last it was realised that the Abbaye was a building that should be saved. Restoration continued throughout the 20th century and in 1986 it was added to the UNESCO world heritage list for its exceptional wealth of wall & ceiling paintings.
We were shown the crypts of the saints Savin and Cyprian and then the amazing pictures that ahd been painted on the wals and ceilings. These told the stories of the books of Genesis and Exodus--ie, Adam & Eve and Cain & Abel. There is a wonderful picture of what looks like a Viking ship-- actually Noah's Ark-- and another, much to my surprise, a Robin, returning to the Ark after going out to find dry land. I suppose different countries have different Bible interpretations!
Red & yellow ochre paints were much used, along with balck & white. Blue colourings are much rarer--as the blue pigments were very expensive in the 12th & 13 th centuries-- & imported from Afghanistan!
We spent the best part of an hour going around the abbaye--then a quick trip around the gardens which ran down to the River Gartempe.
In true French fashion the morning was finished by being turfed out of the place --it was lunch time!
So we all trooped across the market square to the local hotel and devoured the 'plat du jour', with a 'verre de vin rouge' before heading off home!
We'd joined the group at the beginning of the year, but, due to B&B--- or other committments, had been unable to get to any of their events. Most of the 2010 Calendar of Events was composed of socials-- food, drink, dance,music, petanque and quizes. All good fun, but not the end of the world if you can't get there!
A couple of weeks ago, though, Claudette-- an 80year old French lady from Romagne gave a guided walk around the village with particular emphasis on wild flowers and their uses. Sadly we couldn't make it--but nor could many others & it's hoped that she'll give a repeat performance next year!
The outing to St Savin did not coincide with any other event for us, so we set off-- an hour's drive to the north-west! It was market day, but plenty of parking space in the Abbaye car park that adjoined the town square!
We had a group photo taken-- paid 5.50 euros each at the Reception in the book shop, & set off with our English speaking French guide. It was her first time in English--and she was very good! It was just a little unfortunate that the vastness of the building meant her voice got lost from time to time. With hindsight a bit of historical research on the building would have made it easier to understand. Doing it when you get back rather makes you want to return for another look!
As it was, looking at all the magnificent paintings--mostly done in the 10th & 11th century--- and hearing all about them, was a bit of a mini-history of France.
The abbaye was built in the 9th century--and dedicated to St Savin. Savin & his brother Cyprian were Christians in Macedonia in the 5th century. They escaped persecutions and ended up on the banks of the River Gartempe. There they didn't do much better--and were beheaded--and then buried by local Christan priests. 3 centuries later their bodies were found and a church was built on the site.
In the 10th century it was considerably upgraded and was quite prosperous for the next few centuries, with 16 Benedictine monks living there.
Hiccups included the 100 years war--against England! The Black Prince sacked the abbaye in the 13th century. Next were the Religious Wars--Catholics & Huguenots--and later came the French revolution. In between all this were dishonourable Abbots who stole from the place-- and fire and destruction of many parts of the buildings leading to considerable dessicration of the place.
By the late 18th & on into the 19th century, at last it was realised that the Abbaye was a building that should be saved. Restoration continued throughout the 20th century and in 1986 it was added to the UNESCO world heritage list for its exceptional wealth of wall & ceiling paintings.
We were shown the crypts of the saints Savin and Cyprian and then the amazing pictures that ahd been painted on the wals and ceilings. These told the stories of the books of Genesis and Exodus--ie, Adam & Eve and Cain & Abel. There is a wonderful picture of what looks like a Viking ship-- actually Noah's Ark-- and another, much to my surprise, a Robin, returning to the Ark after going out to find dry land. I suppose different countries have different Bible interpretations!
Red & yellow ochre paints were much used, along with balck & white. Blue colourings are much rarer--as the blue pigments were very expensive in the 12th & 13 th centuries-- & imported from Afghanistan!
We spent the best part of an hour going around the abbaye--then a quick trip around the gardens which ran down to the River Gartempe.
In true French fashion the morning was finished by being turfed out of the place --it was lunch time!
So we all trooped across the market square to the local hotel and devoured the 'plat du jour', with a 'verre de vin rouge' before heading off home!
1 comment:
Woops! Nearly missed your comment--sorry!
Thanks for the kind invitation--we'd love to come up your way sometime..fortunately!!...we're a bit bogged down with B&b's at the moment! ( I mean 'fortunately' from a business a point of view..not trying to avoid you both!)
Will get in touch when things calm down!
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