Sunday, 26 September 2010
Motor-racing at Angouleme
Although we've had a couple of mid-week visitors, the last two week-ends have been very quiet. Marvellous for us to get out & about and enjoy the end of summer entertainment!
Last week-end had so much on that it was hard to choose where to go or what to do! In the end I plumped for a girlie Saturday at the Slimmercise Health & Body Beautiful event at the salle de fete in Lessac ( not far from Confolens) where we inspected make-up, clothes, jewelry,--had morning coffee with slimline cakes!--but couldn't get an appointment with the tarot reading lady as she was already so booked up!--bought some Christmas cards and then enjoyed the wonderful ( and very modestly priced!)slimline lunch that had been prepared by Lynn's chef husband and helpers from some of the slimming classes.
I then spent the afternoon in the pool. The water temperature has been on the decline for some time now--it was 24*C then, but now is down to 20! Whether we'll get another dip this year seems doubtful.
I should have gone to Charroux in the evening to see the 'Spectacle'-- a series of historical plays, renacted by local villagers--French & English, and which I'm told was most entertaining. But I didn't-- mainly because we had an early start the next day ( well, Geoff did!)
He was off on a boy's outing with the lads from Beauregard. The 4 of them were off to see the 'Racing round the Ramparts'-- the street racing event held every September in Angouleme.
I am told the place was heaving so they parked at the bottom of town by the in the railway staion car park --and then walked up to the top--for the action!
More pictures, and the rest of the story of the day out at Angouleme with the next posting!
Friday, 17 September 2010
Le Conge Annuel!
We've had a few B&B's since I last wrote in the blog.
The 'most interesting'-- were a Dutch couple who phoned to see if we'd a vacancy on the day before their arrival.
They arrived on pushbikes and were on a 5 week holiday during which they planned to cycle from Holland along the ancient historical pilgrim route of St James Way, along the Camino de Santiago de Compostela.
I knew that Charroux was along the route-- it is frequently a subject of discussion in the village--and cyclists frequently stop to see the tower in Charroux-- all that is now left of the Abbaye which was once one of the biggest in France.
On chatting with my B&B's--who planned to cycle between 50 & 100kms per day--depending on the weather, the terrain etcetc--& then fly home at the end!-- I realised I knew very little about it. So ..........I googled it...........& discovered:-
1985 there were 2,491 pilgrims--who completed the route & claimed a 'compostela' afterwards!
( no--I've no idea either!)
1995 19,821 pilgrims claimed their compostelas!
2005 93,921 pilgrims walked or cycled the route.
Of course, many more go---& are unrecorded if they do not claim their compostela, but it would seem that ever more people, religious & non-religious, from all over Europe are heading through France, across the Pyrenees and along the north coast of Spain ( apparently there's a coastal path & an inland path through the mountains) to Santiago de Compostela on the far west point of Spain.
Quite exciting--n'est ce pas?
We have just returned from our 'conge annuel'-- as the summer break is known in this part of the world!
We headed off to John & Chris's holiday home near Charlieu in La Loire. This isn't the departement all around the River Loire, or Loir, to the north of Poitou-Charentes. It is the departement in the Rhone-Alpes where you find the source of the Loire-- about 5 hours drive due east from here!
We last went there about 3 years ago, so it was great to see all there home improvements. The sad little cottage that had those dark damp rooms which backed onto the mountain had all been opened up and dry-lined. A new bathroom had been installed upstairs--and a new kitchen downstairs-- but the ' piece de resistance' was the new outside doors and windows throughout. Very much food for thought!
Our 2 days there wasn't marred by the continuous rain--good food, good wine (they live by the Beaujolais vineyards and are friends with the owners of Les Bulliats, who produce Regnie wines)and good company--who cares about the weather!
On leaving John & Chris we headed through the 'Montagnes de Madeleine' towards Vichy--with a view to spending the day there --and possibly finding a city B&B where we could spend the night.
We picnicked in the beautiful arboretum parks alongside the River Allier. We went to the old part of the city & had a coffee....but... we are not city folk, and we quickly decided that we couldn't bear the noise and the hustle & bustle...........so we moved on!
A quick study of the map & we discovered we were in that oh,so romantic sounding Auvergne! ( The haunting strains of Joseph Canteloube's 'Songs of the Auvergne' evokes this thought!)
We headed for the town of Riom-- just outside Clermont Ferrand. Not being able to find a B&b we plumped for one of the cheapy hotels that you find on the ring roads of nearly all the big cities in France-- and went to the burger bar across the road for supper! ( French beefburgers are 100% beef--and not to be sneered at!)
The next morning was grey and cloudy as we headed for Puy de Dome. It was well sign-posted & we reached the car park well before 10am. It was also covered by cloud.
I hadn't actually considered mountain climbing. The map looked as though you could drive to the top--but the car park was actually about 3/4 of the way to the summit! It was also busy with hikers, caravanners and builders who were erecting posters and signs. The cafe said it didn't open before 11am--but did advertise a large menu for later in the day.
We read posters-- noting one that said '45 minutes to the top' (less than we walk daily with the dogs!)-- and then decided to meander along the path to see what was around the first corner! At this stage the mountain was still in cloud--in fact visibility in the car park was fairly limited. i didn't think we'd be going very far--which is why I was still carrying my handbag which had a thumping great paperback and a large hardbacked address book as we set off!
The path meandered back & forth up the hillside. There were stopping places with seats and maps and viewing points--all of which we used as we pottered on!
The path crossed a road ( it does go to the top--but not for the likes of tourists!) and the mist started to clear. It was getting a bit steeper as we came across a post with a yellow notice on it--which said ( in 3 languages)-- 'you have covered a third of the journey since leaving the car park. Another 250 metres to climb to the summit!' I reckon we'd already taken 45 minutes at this stage, but it was all quite enjoyable, so we carried on!
The sun came out & the views across the countryside were stunning. The Auvergne consists of umpteen extinct volcanoes, leaving the countryside a series of green craters in all directions. The last part of the climb was a hard slog. We were overtaken by cyclists ( the 'tour de France' has been to the summit of Puy de Dome many times), by joggers and ordinary walkers ( who were younger & fitter!)--but we got there-- hot, and breathless, and very red in the face!
At the summit there were cafes ( all closed, in spite of the number of people--it was September, so the season was over!) --there was the 'Temple of Mercury'-- a series of standing stones!!?!-- and a French television station! A large concrete path went all around the summit , with telescopes and binoculars and posters describing the views in all directions. We carried on ( it was nearly the final straw which broke the camel's back trudging up the last few steps!) taking photos to the north, south, east and west!
We headed back down the path--noting the sign that said '45 minutes back to the car park'! I asked somebody the time--'12.26' he said.
More & more people were trudging to the top as we strode back down with a glowing feeling of superiority!! If we'd stepped out any faster we'd have tumbled. On reaching the car park I was told the time was 1.13pm...... 47 minutes!!
We ate the remains of the Vichy picnic lunch--just as well we had it as the cafe with all the promising signs proved to be selling coffee and kitkats--or so a very disgruntled Englishman informed me!
We'd planned to spend the last part of our holiday in Aubusson. We'd been told it was the tapestry capitol of France--if not the world, and well worth a visit, particularly since it was en-route on our return homewards.
We got there, did a couple of laps and parked in the car park next to the museum ( of tapestry).
Still on a high from the morning's exertions, we found it difficult to get very enthusiastic, but we went round the museum and stared in awe at the enormous wall hangings--dating from the 15th century onwards--before calling it a day and heading home.
The countryside got less green as we got further west. We'd left the place looking a bit like the Sahara-- fields and hedgerows were yellow, or even brown. Lawns were bare after the long hot summer-- and, although I think there'd been a drop of rain, it was nothing compared with what we'd seen over the last few days! Oh good-- it's still summertime-- not yet ready for autumn we thought!
Saturday, 14 August 2010
Star gazing and other local events in Asnois!
Chris Sally appears in the Charroux tableau--'Lise a l'ombrelle' by Pierre-Auguste Renoir.
We've had a busy month in Asnois--well it's August, the month of B&B's on holiday and summertime events.
We kicked off with the Asnois picnic! Everybody takes their own food down to the 'aire de loisir' where long trestle tables are set up under the trees. After all the handshakes & kissing--and the photo where we are all lined up for a picture that eventually is seen in 'La Presse'--'aperitifs' are served. The fashionable drink of the moment is rose wine with pamplemousse. It's very sweet. I'm not so very sure that I like it!--but it's a good topic for conversation! It's amazing how many people who turn up who you've never seen before...including an English couple who live in the Asnois hamlet of Vieille Metive, where they own a holiday home & I've not seen in 5 years.
We sat down & shared out grub-- and booze! Many of the older French brew their own....and very interesting that is too!
Geoff disappeared with Tom & Ellie (son & daughter) as they had to get the plane back to Leeds, whilst Ginnie and I escaped to Charroux where it was the annual 'Painting in the Street' week-end--culminating in the living tableaux! This is where local inhabitants are dressed up and re-enact scenes from famous paintings! ( see picture above!)
This year there were a dozen scenes and at least 30 people took part-- with dozens more involved in dressmaking and general setting up of the paintings. Half a dozen houses and gardens are used to set the scenes --and it is a wonderful excuse to see places that are not usually on show!
After enjoying the hustle and bustle--and heat! of the town for an hour or so we returned to the boules match in Asnois. This is the culmination of every picnic in France! This year it was Angleterre v. France. It was a jolly affair-- the rose & pamplemousse had been flowing copiously since our departure and the match was a good-humoured, raucus affair which the French won with ease!
The second week of August saw much action in the skies at night. Shooting stars and planets not normally visible were discussed on the BBC--and here in France. Asnois had a star-gazing night! We trolled down to the salle de fete at 21.30 hours, carrying binoculars, garden seats and woolly jumpers. After a short lecture from an a lecturer from University d'Orsee in Paris we went out into the car park & looked at Venus, Saturn and Mars. Back to the salle & another 5 minute lecture before heading up the road to a field opposite Mont Lorier. It was getting quite dark now. The lecturer had a powerful torch that he shone at various constellations as he explained what was what! The kids shone their torches at all and sundry--& didn't really help at all! We sat in our garden chairs--staring up at the stars for the next hour or so! At least 3 shooting stars were seen along with the great Bear and Cassieopia ( to name but 2 constellations!) before we returning for refreshments & home to bed!
3 days later we all met up again at 'Chateauneuf'. The Charroux tourist board has been putting on a series of events called 'La Vie du Chateau'. For the last year or 2, chateaux in private occupation throughout the Charroux area have had open evenings where the public have been invited to have a look around & study the buildings and history.
Chateauneuf, in Asnois, but on the other side of the River Charente ( ie from Maureville!) has recently been bought by a family from Paris. 50 or 60 people turned up ( & again, an English family that we'd heard of, but never met before!) to be given a guided tour of the gardens, the water-mill & vivier ( fish holding tanks!) and eventually refreshments in the chateau followed by a trip up to the attics where we looked at the extraordinary roof which comprised a roof within a roof due to extensions done in the last century. The woodwork was stunning and the owner was keen to insulate, whilst still leaving the beams exposed. It provided a lot of discussion--insulation & loft work being the work of all homeowners in these old properties--regardless of the size of one's home!
We also saw the dark damp back of the attics known as the 'prison'. The chateau was requisitioned by the Germans during the war & the back part of the attic was used as a prison.
Chateauneuf is a beautiful place. Since taking it over in June the new owners have done a huge amount of work, but there is still a lot of damp -- much TLC & money will be required to make it habitable! La Vie in a chateau may be very rewarding..but not easy!
Thursday, 15 July 2010
Summer Party season!
This month has been one long 'fete'!
It all started in La Chappelle Baton salle de fete with the 50th birthday celebrations of Ghislaine-- the sole remaining French person attending weekly ballroom dance classes. French friends and family had all been invited--as had all the regulars who turn up every Tuesday night.
It was the start of the heat wave--and, sadly for me, my first week at 'Slimmercise'. ( 'But I'm off to 2 parties this week' I said to Lynne after she'd weighed me & handed me my brand new diet!--'Stick with water, protein and salad'--was the reply!)
So, we danced, and we ate--it's hard on vegetarians in France! but there was tons of different meats-- and I said I was doing the driving, so I toasted the birthday girl with champagne, and then drank water for the rest of the evening! We left well after midnight-- and after such an abstemious do, can only think that it is the late night that made me feel delicate the next day!
Two days later we were back in LCB for Alan & Sue's non-wedding, but 20-years- anniversary party. This was a luncheon and tables had been laid under parasols and awnings along the side of their house for about 20 people. This is the 3rd year that they've thrown a party --last year was Sue's 60th birthday, and the year before was their 10th anniversary since buying a house in France. Sue excelled herself this year--we had an British menu this year:- nibbles and aperitifs , followed by Scotch salmon and prawns, roast beef and ham with Jersey Royals and salad. The cheese comprised blue Shropshire, Stilton, Cheshire and Cheddar--- and so lovely to taste all of these again!--- and then numerous puds!( from which I partook of a small fruit salad--but was led to believe that the banoffi pie was the best-favoured!)
It was unbearably hot--but the company was fun--and the quiz was every bit as difficult as last year! Eugenie and I have declared we're going to do some swatting before next year!
Amazingly I met Mark there--- who reads this blog from time to time-- and is responsible for the above photo! Thankyou Mark!
Alan & Sue took their annual French holiday the next day-- walking in the Tarn. I'vwe not seen them since they got back--but the temperatures were in the late 30's all week--I think they must have melted!
We had friend staying for 5 days. They'd come from a week in Berlin where they'd been very busy--and were happy to relax in the pool in the garden--have a barbecue in the evening, followed by a game of boules!
The following Sunday saw the annual picnic at La Chappelle Baton--of which the highlight is the boules match. You'd think, after all our practice that we'd be quite good--but the natives beat us hollow! Not so terrible as winners buy the celebratory drink of 'miget' after each round! This is an aquired taste ( well, I like it!) of bread, served in red wine & sweetened with sugar --served in a pudding bowl & eaten/drunk with a spoon !
Geoff and his partner came 13th--and won a bottle of red wine and a'LCB 30th Anniversary du comite de la salle de Fete' tee shirt--each! I came 15 th--same prizes, but a bottle of cider each! There were 18 couples taking part. The last 6 places were taken by BRITS! Better luck next year!
Saturday, 26 June 2010
A Hot Week-end in June!
B&B's arrive tomorrow and I'm in the middle of making a rather scrummy chocolate carrot cake. It's very hot & I'd like to go & have a dip in the pool--but it hs another 10 minutes in the oven.
Boris the cat has come in from his sleep outside under the picnic table--and has crashed out on the kitchen floor--probably the coolest place in the house.
Boris Becker is blathering away on the telly with Andrew Castle. It is Wimbledon and Nadal is playing. Changing his shirt ( ie Raffe, not Boris!)between games causes nearly as much excitement as the actual tennis match.
After my dip in the pool I plan to clean out one of the stables. A large freezer has been stored there since we arrived in France 4 years ago. With hindsight, I realise that it should never have come. A new smaller modern one would be more economical to run...but there you go! Anyhow, I've been held in getting on with tis job,up by a pair of swallows and their brood of 4 youngsters. They'd get very angry if you went anywhere near the shed whilst they were feeding, but now they've fledged and all is clear for me to get in there and sort it all out before they lay their 2nd clutch! The garden is now so productive that I need a freezer--the little one above the fridge is too small.
Next year I shall be loosing my office/utility room as it will become part of the gite that we're constructing in the East Wing of the house! The stable with the freezer will become an extended pantry--and one of the stables at the back of the house will become a laundry room. I sometimes think we'll be at least 100 years old by the time all the work is finished.....but it all keeps us out of mischief!
3 weeks ago a brood of black redstarts fledged. They are the funniest little birds. Very like sparrows, but with red patches & black patches-- and even more recognisable by their frantic bobbing up & down whilst shouting at you (or the cats!) to GO AWAY!
Since Geoff's shed ( by the pool--ie to house the pump) was constructed with a window looking out onto the back of the garden and the field in front of the R. Charente, we have been planning to turn it into a hide!
This week we were given a boost by Marie-Laure. Geoff & I go to see her every week for a bit of French tuition!
She lives a few miles away, and rents a holiday gite with an extensive garden with a woodland/ farmland boundary. It was recently occupied by a keen bird-watcher Rose Cockle who made a list of all the birds that were seen that week.I think the 1st in June? (The list may be seen on face-book --click on my link here on the blogger--& then 'Cherry-tree guesthouse' & you must click on the green woodpecker!)
I've purloined the list and plan to use it as a crib. There are at least 40 species of bird--many , many of the everyday common birds--which I don't like to knock! They give masses of entertainment and amusement. There are one or two species that are quite exciting--notably the black kite and the booted eagle. No hoopoes were seen that week--which we regularly see here--and the most concerning lack of appearance this year--for us, and M-l-- is that no owls seem to be about. The little owl that raised its chick in the eaves of our house hasn't come back. No owl has been down the chimney this year--possibly the late cold spring meant the fires were lit until later in the year. We don't even hear the tawny owls in the dusk and dark. It's all most disturbing. I hope they return before long.
Boris the cat has come in from his sleep outside under the picnic table--and has crashed out on the kitchen floor--probably the coolest place in the house.
Boris Becker is blathering away on the telly with Andrew Castle. It is Wimbledon and Nadal is playing. Changing his shirt ( ie Raffe, not Boris!)between games causes nearly as much excitement as the actual tennis match.
After my dip in the pool I plan to clean out one of the stables. A large freezer has been stored there since we arrived in France 4 years ago. With hindsight, I realise that it should never have come. A new smaller modern one would be more economical to run...but there you go! Anyhow, I've been held in getting on with tis job,up by a pair of swallows and their brood of 4 youngsters. They'd get very angry if you went anywhere near the shed whilst they were feeding, but now they've fledged and all is clear for me to get in there and sort it all out before they lay their 2nd clutch! The garden is now so productive that I need a freezer--the little one above the fridge is too small.
Next year I shall be loosing my office/utility room as it will become part of the gite that we're constructing in the East Wing of the house! The stable with the freezer will become an extended pantry--and one of the stables at the back of the house will become a laundry room. I sometimes think we'll be at least 100 years old by the time all the work is finished.....but it all keeps us out of mischief!
3 weeks ago a brood of black redstarts fledged. They are the funniest little birds. Very like sparrows, but with red patches & black patches-- and even more recognisable by their frantic bobbing up & down whilst shouting at you (or the cats!) to GO AWAY!
Since Geoff's shed ( by the pool--ie to house the pump) was constructed with a window looking out onto the back of the garden and the field in front of the R. Charente, we have been planning to turn it into a hide!
This week we were given a boost by Marie-Laure. Geoff & I go to see her every week for a bit of French tuition!
She lives a few miles away, and rents a holiday gite with an extensive garden with a woodland/ farmland boundary. It was recently occupied by a keen bird-watcher Rose Cockle who made a list of all the birds that were seen that week.I think the 1st in June? (The list may be seen on face-book --click on my link here on the blogger--& then 'Cherry-tree guesthouse' & you must click on the green woodpecker!)
I've purloined the list and plan to use it as a crib. There are at least 40 species of bird--many , many of the everyday common birds--which I don't like to knock! They give masses of entertainment and amusement. There are one or two species that are quite exciting--notably the black kite and the booted eagle. No hoopoes were seen that week--which we regularly see here--and the most concerning lack of appearance this year--for us, and M-l-- is that no owls seem to be about. The little owl that raised its chick in the eaves of our house hasn't come back. No owl has been down the chimney this year--possibly the late cold spring meant the fires were lit until later in the year. We don't even hear the tawny owls in the dusk and dark. It's all most disturbing. I hope they return before long.
Sunday, 20 June 2010
Summer barbecues!
Barbecue suppers are a favourite with B&B's--and friends--and family. This year they've been slow taking off and we thought it time to get started!
Friday 18th June-- should be a great date for a barbecue! It's nearly midsummer's day! We're in between B&B's so let's invite all those to whom we owe an evening's grub!
I understand that so far we've had the wettest June on French record. All day Friday was grey--with just a hint of blue sky now & then! We decided to risk it--and laid up the tables in the 'outside dining-room'.
Having veggie guests ( thank heavens they ate fish!) made me decide to stick with a fishy menu:-
grilled mushrooms stuffed with spinach/tomato & topped with blue cheese,
or stuffed with onions in a cream sauce/tomato & goat cheese
followed by prawns tossed in ginger butter
and then homemade salmon & crab cakes served with salad.
For pud I made kir royale cherry & strawberry jellies--- and Sheilah brought the piece de la resistance--- jam doughnuts! These were dunked & rolled in sugar ( French doughnuts are tight on the sugar!) and then cooked on the barbecue!
This coincided with a heavy downpour of rain, but the barbie was pulled under the roof of the shed & nobody noticed!
Copious quantities of red and white wine were consumed throughout the meal and soon after midnight all was wrapped up with coffee and fruit & nut chocolate (French!)-- at which point I remembered the camera & all the photos that I'd planned to take throughout the meal.I rushed around taking pictures at all angles! It was too late and we all look bleary eyed & terrible! They are not good--or flattering--and Janice says she'll pay me not to publish!!--which is why there are only 'before' photos!
--after which everybody wandered off home--or to bed!
ps. In spite of threats from the non-veggies, Boris the cat was not barbecued. He just supervised all the proceedings.
Wednesday, 16 June 2010
L'abbaye de Saint-Savin sur Gartempe
Last Friday we went with a group of, mostly English, people from 'Romagne International' to L'abbaye de St Savin sur Gartempe.
We'd joined the group at the beginning of the year, but, due to B&B--- or other committments, had been unable to get to any of their events. Most of the 2010 Calendar of Events was composed of socials-- food, drink, dance,music, petanque and quizes. All good fun, but not the end of the world if you can't get there!
A couple of weeks ago, though, Claudette-- an 80year old French lady from Romagne gave a guided walk around the village with particular emphasis on wild flowers and their uses. Sadly we couldn't make it--but nor could many others & it's hoped that she'll give a repeat performance next year!
The outing to St Savin did not coincide with any other event for us, so we set off-- an hour's drive to the north-west! It was market day, but plenty of parking space in the Abbaye car park that adjoined the town square!
We had a group photo taken-- paid 5.50 euros each at the Reception in the book shop, & set off with our English speaking French guide. It was her first time in English--and she was very good! It was just a little unfortunate that the vastness of the building meant her voice got lost from time to time. With hindsight a bit of historical research on the building would have made it easier to understand. Doing it when you get back rather makes you want to return for another look!
As it was, looking at all the magnificent paintings--mostly done in the 10th & 11th century--- and hearing all about them, was a bit of a mini-history of France.
The abbaye was built in the 9th century--and dedicated to St Savin. Savin & his brother Cyprian were Christians in Macedonia in the 5th century. They escaped persecutions and ended up on the banks of the River Gartempe. There they didn't do much better--and were beheaded--and then buried by local Christan priests. 3 centuries later their bodies were found and a church was built on the site.
In the 10th century it was considerably upgraded and was quite prosperous for the next few centuries, with 16 Benedictine monks living there.
Hiccups included the 100 years war--against England! The Black Prince sacked the abbaye in the 13th century. Next were the Religious Wars--Catholics & Huguenots--and later came the French revolution. In between all this were dishonourable Abbots who stole from the place-- and fire and destruction of many parts of the buildings leading to considerable dessicration of the place.
By the late 18th & on into the 19th century, at last it was realised that the Abbaye was a building that should be saved. Restoration continued throughout the 20th century and in 1986 it was added to the UNESCO world heritage list for its exceptional wealth of wall & ceiling paintings.
We were shown the crypts of the saints Savin and Cyprian and then the amazing pictures that ahd been painted on the wals and ceilings. These told the stories of the books of Genesis and Exodus--ie, Adam & Eve and Cain & Abel. There is a wonderful picture of what looks like a Viking ship-- actually Noah's Ark-- and another, much to my surprise, a Robin, returning to the Ark after going out to find dry land. I suppose different countries have different Bible interpretations!
Red & yellow ochre paints were much used, along with balck & white. Blue colourings are much rarer--as the blue pigments were very expensive in the 12th & 13 th centuries-- & imported from Afghanistan!
We spent the best part of an hour going around the abbaye--then a quick trip around the gardens which ran down to the River Gartempe.
In true French fashion the morning was finished by being turfed out of the place --it was lunch time!
So we all trooped across the market square to the local hotel and devoured the 'plat du jour', with a 'verre de vin rouge' before heading off home!
We'd joined the group at the beginning of the year, but, due to B&B--- or other committments, had been unable to get to any of their events. Most of the 2010 Calendar of Events was composed of socials-- food, drink, dance,music, petanque and quizes. All good fun, but not the end of the world if you can't get there!
A couple of weeks ago, though, Claudette-- an 80year old French lady from Romagne gave a guided walk around the village with particular emphasis on wild flowers and their uses. Sadly we couldn't make it--but nor could many others & it's hoped that she'll give a repeat performance next year!
The outing to St Savin did not coincide with any other event for us, so we set off-- an hour's drive to the north-west! It was market day, but plenty of parking space in the Abbaye car park that adjoined the town square!
We had a group photo taken-- paid 5.50 euros each at the Reception in the book shop, & set off with our English speaking French guide. It was her first time in English--and she was very good! It was just a little unfortunate that the vastness of the building meant her voice got lost from time to time. With hindsight a bit of historical research on the building would have made it easier to understand. Doing it when you get back rather makes you want to return for another look!
As it was, looking at all the magnificent paintings--mostly done in the 10th & 11th century--- and hearing all about them, was a bit of a mini-history of France.
The abbaye was built in the 9th century--and dedicated to St Savin. Savin & his brother Cyprian were Christians in Macedonia in the 5th century. They escaped persecutions and ended up on the banks of the River Gartempe. There they didn't do much better--and were beheaded--and then buried by local Christan priests. 3 centuries later their bodies were found and a church was built on the site.
In the 10th century it was considerably upgraded and was quite prosperous for the next few centuries, with 16 Benedictine monks living there.
Hiccups included the 100 years war--against England! The Black Prince sacked the abbaye in the 13th century. Next were the Religious Wars--Catholics & Huguenots--and later came the French revolution. In between all this were dishonourable Abbots who stole from the place-- and fire and destruction of many parts of the buildings leading to considerable dessicration of the place.
By the late 18th & on into the 19th century, at last it was realised that the Abbaye was a building that should be saved. Restoration continued throughout the 20th century and in 1986 it was added to the UNESCO world heritage list for its exceptional wealth of wall & ceiling paintings.
We were shown the crypts of the saints Savin and Cyprian and then the amazing pictures that ahd been painted on the wals and ceilings. These told the stories of the books of Genesis and Exodus--ie, Adam & Eve and Cain & Abel. There is a wonderful picture of what looks like a Viking ship-- actually Noah's Ark-- and another, much to my surprise, a Robin, returning to the Ark after going out to find dry land. I suppose different countries have different Bible interpretations!
Red & yellow ochre paints were much used, along with balck & white. Blue colourings are much rarer--as the blue pigments were very expensive in the 12th & 13 th centuries-- & imported from Afghanistan!
We spent the best part of an hour going around the abbaye--then a quick trip around the gardens which ran down to the River Gartempe.
In true French fashion the morning was finished by being turfed out of the place --it was lunch time!
So we all trooped across the market square to the local hotel and devoured the 'plat du jour', with a 'verre de vin rouge' before heading off home!
Sunday, 6 June 2010
The 1-day event.
I couldn't persuade my B&B's to join me at the Beauregard 1- day event today. They preferred to follow the final days attractions with the 3- day Ferarri event at Val de Vienne, Le Vigeant! each to their own! Either way the change was phenominal after yesterday's heatwave. Thunder and lightening and then heavy rain for a couple of hours.
I was doing my monthly stint on 'Mrs T's teas' and should have been safely tucked away in the caravan, but the whole set-up had been re-organised as Mrs T, and Mr T who runs the barbecue, had dashed off to the UK for a funeral. Andria and a friend had taken over the teas and I'd been promoted--with Geoff to cooking on the barbecue. (We'd had a rather splendid practice run on Wednesday night!)
The barbecue is to the side of the caravan & its only shelter was a sun brolly! This dripped all over the table and the breakfast service was very uncomfortable--although there were no complaints about the bacon & egg butties!
The dressage started promptly at 9.30. Most people attempted to stay undercover of some sort. The girl on the horse doing the dressage seemed oblivious of the weather, whilst her so-supportive mother got soaked to the skin whilst watching alongside the arena! The judges faired little better. The rain fell onto their roof/sunhood and promptly dripped down their backs.
In fact, after yesterday's hot weather many folk were just not prepared for the change and could still be seen in shorts & tee-shirts--and even sandals!
But the day moved on. The rain stopped--we served tea, and bacon butties and the dressage changed for the jumping--and the bacon changed to the cheeseburgers. More people came and sat in the slowly appearing sunshine. Cans of coke & orange were suddenly required!
The final event , the cross-country was what we were all waiting for. In the past the caravan has been situated in front of the first jump-- so 1 jump--2 jumps--& then they were out of site. Now the caravan has been moved, and the course has been altered ( the reasons will be explained at a later date!!). Now the final jump is right in front of the caravan & picnic area--but you can actually see them come up to jump 11 and work their way back & forth to this spot, with all but the 2 jumps in the wood being visible. Quite exciting!
Next event at Beauregard.................. a FUN Day-- fun & games, show-jumping & dressage, & the 2nd annual Beauregard DOG show!.........on July25th.
And the Ferarri fans?-- they came back soaking--but happy too!
I was doing my monthly stint on 'Mrs T's teas' and should have been safely tucked away in the caravan, but the whole set-up had been re-organised as Mrs T, and Mr T who runs the barbecue, had dashed off to the UK for a funeral. Andria and a friend had taken over the teas and I'd been promoted--with Geoff to cooking on the barbecue. (We'd had a rather splendid practice run on Wednesday night!)
The barbecue is to the side of the caravan & its only shelter was a sun brolly! This dripped all over the table and the breakfast service was very uncomfortable--although there were no complaints about the bacon & egg butties!
The dressage started promptly at 9.30. Most people attempted to stay undercover of some sort. The girl on the horse doing the dressage seemed oblivious of the weather, whilst her so-supportive mother got soaked to the skin whilst watching alongside the arena! The judges faired little better. The rain fell onto their roof/sunhood and promptly dripped down their backs.
In fact, after yesterday's hot weather many folk were just not prepared for the change and could still be seen in shorts & tee-shirts--and even sandals!
But the day moved on. The rain stopped--we served tea, and bacon butties and the dressage changed for the jumping--and the bacon changed to the cheeseburgers. More people came and sat in the slowly appearing sunshine. Cans of coke & orange were suddenly required!
The final event , the cross-country was what we were all waiting for. In the past the caravan has been situated in front of the first jump-- so 1 jump--2 jumps--& then they were out of site. Now the caravan has been moved, and the course has been altered ( the reasons will be explained at a later date!!). Now the final jump is right in front of the caravan & picnic area--but you can actually see them come up to jump 11 and work their way back & forth to this spot, with all but the 2 jumps in the wood being visible. Quite exciting!
Next event at Beauregard.................. a FUN Day-- fun & games, show-jumping & dressage, & the 2nd annual Beauregard DOG show!.........on July25th.
And the Ferarri fans?-- they came back soaking--but happy too!
Saturday, 5 June 2010
Early June!
It's a very hot Saturday afternoon in June.
My B&B's have gone to the Ferrari event at Val de Vienne, Le Vigeant. It will be wonderful--but they are going to cook.
I am in the office-- famous for freezing us all to death in winter, but very pleasant during the heat of the summer sun, and I'm listening to the cricket on Radio 4 longwave, whilst playing on the computer.
Geoff is taking a siesta. He got up at 5 am, walked the dogs and then got on with his latest building project, whilst it was still relatively cool. He is building a shed for the pool pump. He was told to make sure he built it big enough--and now is being mocked by all and sundry as to how big it is!
Never mind. There's a window on the bottom side, which overlooks te fields leading down to the R Charente . It is going to make a wonderful place for a bird-watching hide.
The near side will make a very smart changing room.
The slabs have been delivered to make a patio area-- and we need some proper steps down the bank. When finished it will be marvellous. At the present it is a bit of a building site!
Having said all that, the sun is shining, the temperature is HOT HOT HOT & the pool is delicious!
My B&B's have gone to the Ferrari event at Val de Vienne, Le Vigeant. It will be wonderful--but they are going to cook.
I am in the office-- famous for freezing us all to death in winter, but very pleasant during the heat of the summer sun, and I'm listening to the cricket on Radio 4 longwave, whilst playing on the computer.
Geoff is taking a siesta. He got up at 5 am, walked the dogs and then got on with his latest building project, whilst it was still relatively cool. He is building a shed for the pool pump. He was told to make sure he built it big enough--and now is being mocked by all and sundry as to how big it is!
Never mind. There's a window on the bottom side, which overlooks te fields leading down to the R Charente . It is going to make a wonderful place for a bird-watching hide.
The near side will make a very smart changing room.
The slabs have been delivered to make a patio area-- and we need some proper steps down the bank. When finished it will be marvellous. At the present it is a bit of a building site!
Having said all that, the sun is shining, the temperature is HOT HOT HOT & the pool is delicious!
Wednesday, 2 June 2010
BLATANT ADVERTISING!!!
--or , The things we do for family!
This morning I received an e-mail from my brother who lives in Scotland. He owns a holiday cottage near St Andrews which he would like to let during the Open Golf Championships --July10th-19th.
It is the ground floor of a large villa with 3 bedrooms and within walking distance of a superb pub!
Anybody looking for such a place should e-mail:- maureenrees@msn.com
or phone 07763 473 369 ( UK number!)
Golf fans looking for somewhere to play in France?
St Junien is lovely--although it's a number of years since I've played. Exciting course--great facilities--particularly the restaurant!
This morning I received an e-mail from my brother who lives in Scotland. He owns a holiday cottage near St Andrews which he would like to let during the Open Golf Championships --July10th-19th.
It is the ground floor of a large villa with 3 bedrooms and within walking distance of a superb pub!
Anybody looking for such a place should e-mail:- maureenrees@msn.com
or phone 07763 473 369 ( UK number!)
Golf fans looking for somewhere to play in France?
St Junien is lovely--although it's a number of years since I've played. Exciting course--great facilities--particularly the restaurant!
Saturday, 22 May 2010
Well, I'm horribly behind with this blog!
A nasty bout of flu slowed everything up in March-- we then had George ( the boxerdog) for more weeks than planned as his master was waylaid in hospital in the UK. Of course, that's really no reason for NOT writing anything!
House buying B&B's stayed with us for a week whilst the got their house liveable--and WOW--haven't they done a good job! We went over on Easter day and had afternoon tea ( not very French!) in the garden sunshine. They've bought a semi-detached house in a tiny hamlet near St Martin L'Ars--one of our very favourite places for the grandchildren as they have a 'plage' with swimming lake and a restaurant.
Then the weather took a dive--coinciding with the visit of the afore-mentionned grandsons and we spent a couple of weeks trying to work out the best way to entertain 2 year olds, without spending a fortune. Finding friends of their own age proved the easiest option--but we are rather in the middle of no-where and have no suitable neighbours. Eventually we found a couple of lads which meant trips to the 'aire de loisirs' was much more fun.
Swings and slides are the ultimate entertainment.
However a couple of times indoor entertainment was required! La Chouette-land at Smarves turned out to be a great success. Bouncy inflateables, ball-pools and climbing frames--everything to delight a small boy-- sufficiently supervised for mums to sit alongside drinking coffee and eating gateaux!
They've all been gone for 4 days now--and the weather's got hotter and hotter ( it would only have meant panics over suncream and hats--not easy with a 2 year-old who keeps undressing!)--so now we're gardening , and trying to landscape around the swimming pool.
Barring last minute bookings, our next B&B's are here in 21/2 weeks. I hope it'll soon be ready for them, and some photos!
Saturday, 13 March 2010
Plans for August!
The busiest time of the year for B&B owners in Charroux is the first week-end of August.
Click HERE for link to website
For many years now, Charroux has invited artists to come and spend the week-end painting scenes of the town. From Friday evening until Sunday afternoon-- when all the pictures are hung in Les Halles for voting and then sale by auction-- you can see people at their easels in different places--up and down the main street, up back alleyways and around and about the Abbaye. As well as this , last year on Sunday afternoon we all meandered about the place in search of living tableaux!
Why am I writing about it now? I started , in my blog, back in August last year--& some how got sidetracked before finishing it as I moving on to the next event.
Some of last year's tableaux scenes can be seen in the photos above.
Re-enactments of about a dozen famous painting scenes by Renoir, Manet, Velazquez, Van Gogh and many other well-known artists were displayed throughout the village-- in houses, sheds,private gardens and the Abbaye grounds. Local people were dressed up as exact replicas of these paintings and asked to hold the painting pose for numerous minutes as locals and visitors walked around, from one scene to the next.
Well, plans for the big event of the year are the talk of the town at the moment. Following last year's magnicent success, the painting in the street competition will again be augmented by numerous living tableaux.
The pictures have been chosen and parts have been cast. The dressmakers have taken all the measurements and are set to make all the outfits.
I shall not be taking part-- B&B commitments make it difficult. Other friends are doing so--and I'm quite envious of their 'I'm going to be a posh lady this year--but need to lose a stone to wear all that finery' and 'thank heavens I don't have to dye my hair red this year!'!!
It all sounds very exciting-- and hearing of the dressmaking exploits of some of the older French ladies of Charroux---- 'she asks you to stand, holds the swath against your body--and starts to cut it there and then'! --I'd love to be a fly on the wall!
So--- Charroux--the first weekend of August! It's going to be another super event! Why don't you come and join us!
Saturday, 27 February 2010
House-buyers had a couple of days B&B with us in February whilst signing their 'Acte de Vente' for their new home in a hamlet near the neighbouring village of 'Genouille'. It is lovely to know that, despite these troubled financial times, people are still heading for France to enjoy the good life here!
Apart from this it has been a quiet month. Geoff has been upstairs building a mezzanine for our new gite that we hope to be up and running for the 2011 season. I have been dodging the showers & attempting to get the potager underway!
Otherwise we have re-joined our ballroom dance classes--- only to find that our feet have forgotten nearly everything during the winter break--- and yesterday I joined some ladies from my French class and we all went to the theatre in Civray to see the wonderful Flamenco guitarist--Juan De Lerida--and his troup of musicians for a splendid evening of Spanish guitar music!
Apart from this it has been a quiet month. Geoff has been upstairs building a mezzanine for our new gite that we hope to be up and running for the 2011 season. I have been dodging the showers & attempting to get the potager underway!
Otherwise we have re-joined our ballroom dance classes--- only to find that our feet have forgotten nearly everything during the winter break--- and yesterday I joined some ladies from my French class and we all went to the theatre in Civray to see the wonderful Flamenco guitarist--Juan De Lerida--and his troup of musicians for a splendid evening of Spanish guitar music!
Monday, 25 January 2010
The River Charente
I've always felt our greatest asset--ie for B&B's wanting to visit Maureville, is the River Charente, where we have access to our own private all the year round naturewatch!
We have right of way across the field at the bottom of our garden, and can walk down to the river in a couple of minutes.
Every season offers a variety of interests.All last summer the level was very low, and the feed stream from the lake at Rochemeneau, which causes a small ford across the chemin, was dry for months.One hot afternoon my 'grown-up' offspring paddled across the river to the opposite bank one afternoon ( and played and splashed like small children!). They were in search of the yellow water lilies that grow in large clumps up & downstream. I now have a small clump on my frog pond!
More recently,the autumn rains have meant the water level has been running quite high, although not to the extent that it broke the banks and flooded the surrounding field for 50-60 metres , as happened a couple of years ago.
The day before yesterday, much to our surprise, all changed again. I think the sluice gates, down at the leisure area in Asnois have been opened. The river is flowing very fast with a great gushing noise. The levels are lower than ever-- there are sandy 'beaches' along the river shores-- mysteriously with shells lying in great clumps, and new exposed islands in the middle. There is a lot of mud-- and no sign of coypu! Time will tell, I don't suppose they are far away.
With this new fast flowing river I am hoping we will see more kingfisher--my favourite bird! We had a few sightings last year, but usually the river is a bit too slow & sluggish.
Meanwhile there are the usual-- sparrows, blackbirds, robins and great tits--and a lot of buzzards about-- and the green woodpecker ( or it may be the greater spotted) can be heard going 'ratatatat'!
More excitingly, last week, we saw a flock of black storks arising from their nightly roost in the trees alongside the river and migrating south-- much the same as last year, but then their migration was during Christmas week. I hope it will only be a short time before they come back to start nesting!
It's late January, the days are getting longer............... the snowdrops are peeping up through the soil........ there's so much more to come!
Thursday, 14 January 2010
Maureville in the snow--January 2010
From the fall of the first snowflakes on the afternoon of Sunday 3rd January 2010 until the downfall of rain during the night of Tuesday the 10th, we've been unable to get the car out.
This hasn't stopped us walking the 'block' ( up the road, right at the crossroads,along the Chatain road to the chemin & then back along it to the house) every day with the dogs. I've even cadged a lift to the supermarket with neighbour Keith in his 4x4.
Mostly though it's been chop up wood and build up the fires, make some nice warm soup( although I left the last of the pumpkin out & they all froze solid!)--and then hunker down in front of the telly!
Monday, 4 January 2010
Happy New Year!
Monday January 4th 2010--and it's back to work after all the partying! My first B&B booking of the season arrived this morning! House-hunters, hoping to make a new life in this idyllic part of France! I look forward to meeting them in a couple of weeks.
Christmas partying started at the beginning of December with the annual Asnois Christmas lunch. Nearly everybody turns up to this event. We start eating at 12.30 and munch our way through about 8 different courses (one year it was 13, but there's a recession on now!) and drink different wines accordingly--ie, a sweet white wine with the foie gras, a chardonnay with the fish, and at least 2 different reds with the main course and the cheese. Of course, one also has an 'aperitif' (usually a pineau) before the meal starts. Between the fish & main course we are served an iced 'trou' (doused in eau de vie!) and a 'digestif' ( usually a cognac, or cassis, or 50/50 mix of the two!) is served after the coffee.
This year's entertainment was a comedian/singer with his accordian-playing partner. He was okay, but nobody got up to dance , he was exceedingly LOUD--and finished his act by 5.30pm. In a way this was quite a relief-- at last we could chat with friends and neighbours, and move around the room to see people we'd barely seen since last year's do! In an act of extreme generosity the Asnois council brought out chocolates and champagne--which kept the party going for another couple of hours!
I really don't know how, or where they( the French) put it!
The next seasonal 'do' was the end of term ballroom dancing party. We meet on Tuesday evenings at La Chappelle Baton salle de fete, and normally dance in jeans & trainers, but for the last class of term we dressed up in all our finery--and pretended we were on 'Strictly.........'!
Then we finished the evening in true French tradition--food & wine!
I then popped over to England for a week where the highlight was meeting up with all the family to celebrate my Dad's 90th birthday. Lunch at the 'Durham Ox' near Warwick-- 20 people in 4 generations came-- me from France, and others from Scotland, Cumbria, Yorkshire and London. Not bad considering how awful the weather was that week!
Back in France, Christmas Day celebrations were, like last year, of the 'ex-pat' variety. We tend to continue in English tradition and get together in groups of 8 or 10, providing different courses and eating a lunch of turkey with all the trimmings and Christmas pud. Of course we all have access to British TV these days, but rarely get to see the Queen's speech. We have all developed the French knack of extended meals--so a 2.00pm start means we are still eating at 4.30pm, and, even though we are an hour behind, tend to miss it!
This year we were introduced to a game called Uno Extreme. No brains required & fun for all. We then watched Dr Who and 'Strictly...' with Christmas cake and pineau before heading home.
After Christmas saw us at a clay-pigeon shoot on Boxing day, a long & lingering meal on New Year's Eve (we didn't get home until 3.30!) and yesterday, following my birthday earlier in the week, we threw a small luncheon party ourselves!
Today, Monday 4th January 2010, as I said before, it should be back to work. The annual 'regime' should be underway and I promised I'd get out the old 'Michel Thomas' French CD's............but... it snowed last night. We can't get out as the road's so slippery. I've a fridgeful of left-overs that need eating................so, I think, this year, we'll start the New Year 'properly' on 12th night. That gives us 2 more days to clear everything up!
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